No-Fuss Holiday Entertaining

This is a busy time of year! The days between Thanksgiving and the New Year are filled with activities -shopping, decorating, holiday baking, and dinners just for starters. For me, these weeks have also included a couple of out-of-town visitors, two quick trips out of town, and the birthdays of four friends. It has been a happy whirlwind as every week seemed to include a gathering or a short trip.

With all this activity, entertaining can either be a joy or it can cause stress. And stress is no fun! To keep the holidays fun and avoid entertaining burn-out, opting for a no-fuss approach is the way to go. No-fuss means that most of what is served can be purchased or prepared in advance with a minimum of actual cooking. That way, the effort goes into choosing a good mix of items with a variety of tastes and textures, presenting them in a visually appealing way, pouring something festive to drink and then relaxing with the guests. This is just the approach I used for the small gathering that I recently hosted. My no-fuss choice was to create a festive cheese board for an aperitivo celebration. No cooking required!

Here are some ideas for putting together a tasty cheese board.

Herbed goat cheese - tangy, creamy, spicy and store bought

First, choose a variety of cheeses, even better if they are local specialties. For a light cocktail hour, an ideal combination is one soft cheese and one that is medium or hard. For a more substantial appetizer add a third cheese. Since my gathering was a pre-dinner aperitivo, I kept things light with just two cheeses.

I purchased rounds of a creamy herb-crusted goat cheese (2 varieties, chive and red pepper) at the local grocery. They paired well with a wedge of good quality pecorino fresca from one of Lucca’s specialty cheese shops. A bit of jam or honey alongside the pecorino added a bit of flavor complexity.

The twisted shape gives these bread sticks an added visual boost

Next, some type of bread to go with the cheese. Using a variety of shapes, sizes, and forms makes the presentation more interesting.

Crackers are easier than fresh bread as there is no last minute slicing and the crispness holds up well with just about any cheese. For my board I purchased some pretty bread stick twists and two types of crackers.

These marinated green olives are salty and a bit briny, they complement the cheeses nicely.

Now, add in some salty and stronger flavors. Good olives are perfect. Marinated small tomatoes or cornichons work well too. For a more hearty appetizer tray, some flavorful meats are a good addition. Prosciutto or salami would be typical Italian choices.

Next comes fruit. Grapes always go well with cheese. Added bonus - they look great on the platter! Apples or pears would have been another good choice (but grapes don’t require any slicing and can be put out well ahead of time, making them the perfect no-fuss choice). Dried fruit adds additional flavor, color, and texture. Dried apricots worked especially well with the pecorino.

Last, some sweet flavors. In this case I used candied walnuts, the only thing that actually required me to cook (if melting sugar and tossing in the nuts really counts as cooking). The combination of sweet and crunchy was a good contrast to the salty olives and creamy cheese. A small cup of honey to drizzle over the pecorino added another layer of sweet flavor.

Something bubbly to toast with comes next. Prosecco is ideal for an aperitivo and is the perfect choice for any celebration.

Start with a simple cutting board or platter, add a pedestal dish for height, and begin layering foods until you are happy with the presentation.

Once all the foods are chosen, the next consideration is presentation. This is the fun and creative part; a chance to tap into your inner Martha Stewart!

Cutting boards, platters, and trays can all serve as a base for a cheese board. I don’t have a fancy cheese board, but my IKEA wooden cutting board worked just fine as a base for the grapes and cheeses. For some height variation, a small pedestal plate on, or alongside, the cutting board adds a bit of “oomph” to the presentation. Tall breadsticks standing upright in a glass do the same.

Color and texture are also important. Two colors of grapes, one green and one red, colorful herbs topping the goat cheese, and a combination of creamy and firm cheeses is a good start. A halved pomegranate provided color variation, contrasting texture, and served as a space filler on the cheese board. Plus it was a sparkly seasonal fruit. Additional color and texture came from the dried apricots.

Pomegranates are “jewels” that add sparkle to a cheese board

A variety of plates, bowls, and boards can be positioned alongside the main board to expand the spread. No need for everything to match! And no special tableware is needed, just mix and match whatever you have available (though having some good cheese knives is a big help; I borrowed some from a friend). And a pretty table cloth always helps to set the stage.

Ready to serve !

With everything in place I was able to enjoy my guests with no worry about keeping things warm or fussing over serving. All I had to do was pour the Prosecco (and truth be told, a friend volunteered for that job!).

There you have my strategies for no-fuss holiday entertaining. What tricks do you use for stress-free parties at this time of year?

With New Year’s Eve right around the corner, another no-fuss cheese board just may be in my future.

Happy New Year! Buon Anno !

Cook Once and Entertain Twice: An Afternoon Tea and Evening Aperitivo

I’ve always adhered to the “cook once, eat twice” school of meal prep. This was especially true in the days when I was working full time and doing most of the cooking for my family. Even now, when I am usually cooking for just one in my tiny Italian kitchen, I love making extra and having leftovers. Soups, stews, extra salad ingredients all prepped - these things make life much easier.

One lump or two ? The quintessential tea question.

But I’ve never really applied that approach to entertaining. It was just a bit of serendipity that recently saw me doing some culinary recycling, stretching the preparations over two separate events.
I had carefully planned the first event - an afternoon tea for a a group of friends, one of whom is soon to depart Lucca for her home across the sea.

The tea was a fairly formal affair with dainty tea sandwiches, scones with lemon curd, and the Queen’s own shortbread (or so the recipe claimed) along with chocolate cookies rolled in pistachio bits.

It was served in proper courses - first savories, then scones, and finally sweets. Very ladylike!

With plenty of leftovers, I turned around the next day and hosted an impromptu rainy evening aperitivo. One key - there was no overlap in the two groups that I hosted, so that no one was seeing the same dishes twice. I did fess up to the aperitivo group that I had served some of the same things, though in slightly different form, the day before. They did not seem to mind at all! Of course a formal tea with scones and the like is not appropriate fare for an evening aperitivo, so I had to change things up a bit.

A buffet rather than a formal table setting worked best for the aperitivo. But the fall centerpiece and even the tablecloth worked for both.

For the aperitivo I did make one platter of small sandwich rounds filled with a gorgonzola pecan spread and some cherry jam (exactly the same as I’d served for tea the day prior). But I changed the other sandwich offering - the one with a salmon cream cheese filling. For the aperitivo, I served the salmon filling as a spread for crackers rather than in the little triangular sandwiches I had made for the tea.

What was a salmon sandwich filling for tea became this spread with crackers for the aperitivo

I added a bowl of potato chips and a couple of bottles of wine and - voila! - an Italian aperitivo. We ended up talking for hours, solving many of the world’s problems, which gave me a perfect excuse to set out the leftover cookies.

Doing the two events back to back was fun and used my leftover ingredients to great advantage. And it really cut prep time! With slight modification, the table setting morphed from formal tea to informal aperitivo. Even the fall centerpiece of leaves (collected on Lucca’s walls) and local gourds and pumpkins made the transition nicely. Plus, I was able to see two different sets of friends and enjoy two very different events. That was the best part.
Cook once and entertain twice or, in Italian, cucina una volta e intrattieni due volte, just may be my new motto.

Fall days in Lucca are perfect for entertaining.

Brushing Up on French and Greek

I’m spending some time in the United States right now, enjoying family time and avoiding the heat and humidity of the Italian Summer. While I miss Italy, I’m using this time away to brush up on my French and Greek. Not the languages - I’ve trouble enough trying to improve my Italian - I’m brushing up on French and Greek dining. Fair warning - these pictures may make you hungry!

Toast with goat cheese, raspberries, and a chile infused jam at Meraki, a Greek cafe in Albuquerque, NM

I rarely eat Italian food when I’m in New Mexico (it just doesn’t measure up to the real thing), but I do find myself missing the variety of flavors and the ambiance of European cafes. Lucky for me just a short distance from my New Mexico condo are two cafes, one French and one Greek. These go a long way to satisfying my hunger for a bit of European flavor in New Mexico. And since the kitchen in my New Mexico condo is currently undergoing renovation, I’ve had the perfect (all too perfect perhaps) excuse to eat out.

For a taste of France I visit La Quiche, which serves up beautiful French food, breads, and pastries.

The murals in the dining room transport me to Paris, as do the French accents of the staff. A good cafe au lait and a croissant, or a delicate fruit and cream filled pastry, make for the perfect occasional breakfast treat. If I close my eyes the quiches, omelets, and French-inspired salads carry me straight to Provence.

Meraki, a Greek cafe and market, offers another taste of Europe, both Greece and Italy. The word Meraki has no exact English translation, but in Greek it conveys work that reflects great love and care. That concept is certainly reflected in the quality of their food (fresh, seasonal, and carefully sourced) and in the warm, friendly service. This is a small cafe with a big heart. It may sit in a busy shopping center, but the clean white decor and the interesting flavors provide a hint of blue seas and Greek islands.

My friend Alexa enjoying lunch at Meraki. Just look at all those fresh and colorful ingredients.

This is one of my go-to places for really good coffee. Don’t ask for an artificial sweetener here - or even sugar. The coffees are sweetened with a house made simple syrup. Simply wonderful. For a real treat, pair the coffee with a traditional Greek sweet - Loukoumades. These are Greek style donut holes, drizzled with honey and topped with crushed walnuts and powdered sugar. It’s best to bring a friend or two as this order is big enough to share!

Loukoumades

For a recent breakfast I had the homemade Greek yogurt topped with berries, honey, mint, and a really good house made granola. The yogurt was the best I have ever had - creamy without any sharpness. My friend had an equally delightful toast topped with soft goat cheese, raspberries, and a spicy ancho chile jam - a bit of Greek and New Mexico fusion. How does one say “yum” in Greek ?

Almost too pretty to eat - greek yogurt with berries, granola, and honey.

The sandwiches at Meraki cross over into Italy with ingredients like ciabatta bread, prosciutto, and provolone cheese. In the afternoons and evenings they serve cocktails, wine, bruschetta, and meat/cheese boards along with salads, mussels, and burgers. An evening return is definitely on my list of things to do before I return to Italy next month. After all, I’m still working on my Greek and French!

A Summer Luncheon: Poached Salmon with Wasabi Sauce

June is a fickle month - sometimes barely reaching spring time temperatures and other times bringing hot summer weather a bit too early. But when the calendar flips to July, then summer begins in earnest. In Italy, that means hot and humid weather. In New Mexico, where I am spending the summer visiting family, the weather is hot but dry with occasional stormy, cloudy days. No matter where I find myself in summer, the hot weather means I do my bread baking early in the morning and look for cool, refreshing things to cook for meals. It also means the herbs in my “garden” (really just a collection of pots on my patio) are ready to incorporate into many dishes. It’s always more fun if the meal is shared with friends, so summer time entertaining is always on my July calendar.

One dish I often cook when in the US, but rarely make when I’m in Italy, is salmon. I’ve grilled it, baked it, pan fried it, breaded and deep fried it. Once I baked 5 whole, fresh caught Alaskan salmon to feed 50 people at a co-workers wedding (the salmon were caught in Alaska by her brother and shipped on ice to New Mexico). That was fun! But rarely is a whole salmon on the menu - usually I’m cooking individual salmon pieces, medium thickness and about 6 ounces each. In the US that often means a bag of frozen salmon from Costco is in my freezer.

One thing I had never tried (before this week) was poaching salmon. Poached salmon - it just sounds elegant, doesn’t it? Best of all, it can be poached early in the day, chilled, and served cold. That makes it perfect for a summer-time luncheon. Cold salmon calls for a brightly flavored sauce, so to go with my poached salmon experiment I made a wasabi mayonnaise. For my luncheon I added a salad (brought by my guest) and some sourdough bread. To finish the lunch, some sweets from a local bakery added a perfect finish. What a nice way to welcome summer! My adventure in poaching salmon turned out nicely and I think it is destined to become one of my favorite summer time meals.

The poached salmon makes a beautiful presentation when garnished with lemon slices and fresh chives.

Recipes

Poached Salmon

Salmon pieces are cooked in a flavorful poaching liquid of wine, lemon juice, chives

Poaching liquid: Combine 1/2 cup white wine (I used some leftover Prosecco that was almost flat), 1 cup water, 2 lemon slices, a small bunch of chives (rough chopped), 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of black pepper in a deep pan. Bring to a slow boil.

Slip salmon pieces (thicker pieces, not very thin filets, about 6 oz each) into the poaching liquid, reduce heat, simmer about 10 minutes or until just cooked through. If the poaching liquid is not quite deep enough to completely cover the salmon, then turn them over mid-way through cooking, gently so as not to break them). Remove salmon from liquid, peel off the skin, and chill.

Ingredients for the wasabi mayonnaise. I used bunching onions fresh from the garden, but scallions will work nicely too.

Wasabi Mayonnaise

1/2 cup Best Foods mayonnaise

2 1/2 Tablespoons wasabi paste (this amount gives mild heat, use more or less to taste)

1 Tablespoon finely chopped bunching onions or scallions

1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Combine all ingredients and refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving to allow the flavor to develop.

To serve : plate the chilled salmon on top of lettuce leaves, garnish with lemon slices and whole chives, and serve with wasabi mayonnaise on the side.

La Polleria (The Poultry Shop)

Shopping for groceries (fare la spessa in Italian) is one of the great cultural experiences for stranieri (foreigners) living in Italy. Food, and the process of obtaining it, helps to define a culture. And the act of shopping itself provides a language lesson as it requires use of a specialized vocabulary - after all one wouldn’t want to request uva (grapes) when needing uova (eggs) or pesche (peaches) instead of pesce (fish). I look forward to grocery shopping in Lucca with an enthusiasm that I lack when in the United States.

While there are some big grocery stores here (true supermarkets), they are outside of the historic center of the town where I live. I do use one of the small grocery stores inside Lucca’s walls for essentials - pasta, rice, coffee, sugar, etc. But for other items it remains common in Lucca to visit a number of small specialty shops, something I love to do. Two years of living here has made me a bit fussy about foods. I prefer milk from the region of the Maremma, available at a nearby latteria (dairy store). It just tastes better than what I can buy at the grocery store, plus that same latteria sells the nicest cheeses and lovely little slices of frittata and vegetable tartlets. I buy only local olive oil, freshly pressed each fall. I have a couple of favorite meat markets, delis, and vegetable markets. As for bread - well it seems everyone has their favorite panificio (bread bakery). I will gladly walk across town for the best focaccia.

One of my favorite shopping experiences is to venture to the local polleria (poultry shop) where they specialize in the freshest, tastiest chicken. In Lucca that’s the Polleria Volpe on Via San Paolino. In addition to wonderful chicken they also have a variety of other meats and shelves full of pasta, beans, olive oils, and other staples.

Just some of the ready-to-cook meats available at Polleria Volpe

The yellowish color is typical of chicken found in Italy (apologies to my vegetarian friends, but these birds are tasty!)

As someone who was used to purchasing chicken on a white styrofoam tray wrapped in plastic, my first visit to Polleria Volpe was an eye-opener. I did not see what I wanted in the display case, so I asked if they had chicken thighs of the bone-in and skin-on variety. They did, but would need to cut them for me. The macellaio (butcher) then proceeded to remove a large chicken from a huge box full of chickens. Next, out came a big cleaver which she used to expertly removed the thigh / leg quarters from the chickens. Then she separated the thighs from the lower legs with a slightly smaller knife. They way she did it made it look more like an art form, or an ancient weaponry display, then butchering. Along the way she taught me the difference between cosce (which my dictionary said was a thigh but actually means the thigh / leg combination) and anca (hip - meaning just the upper thigh).

As if that weren’t enough, she then asked me “bruciate?”. HUH? Burned? Why would I want my chicken thighs burned? As it turned out, she was asking if I wanted her to singe the bits of remaining feathers, something no American butcher has ever asked me. That process leaves little brown singe marks on the skin and I swear it adds to the flavor once those thighs are roasted. That first visit to the polleria was a valuable cultural, language, and culinary, experience!

Who knew a butcher shop could be this colorful and interesting ?

Over time, I’ve come to know the butchers at Volpe and depend on their recommendations. They were most helpful in picking out a large roasting chicken to do stand-in for a Thanksgiving turkey last year. I was only a bit surprised when the chicken they pulled out for me had both its head and two very, very long legs. Thankfully the butcher removed both before wrapping it up in paper for me to take home. The bird also came with their best wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving, which they called the “American holiday”.

A while back I saw small involtini (little rolled pieces of meat) in their display case. At first I thought they were chicken but they were actually strips of rabbit (coniglio) laid on top of thin strips of lardo (pork fat), rolled up and secured with a toothpick. I was intrigued, but since I had never cooked rabbit I asked the butcher how to prepare it - in the forno (oven) or in a padella (frying pan)? Her recommendation: frying pan with a bit of olive oil and some white wine. I followed those instructions, but first I rolled them in finely chopped herbs (sage and rosemary) along with salt & some garlic. Then I seared them, added the white wine, squeezed in a bit of lemon juice, and let them cook for about 30 minutes. I finished the sauce with a little knob of butter and served the finished involtini over rice. The flavor was heavenly!

Pre-packed chicken wrapped in plastic just can’t compete, either for flavor or for the sheer delight of shopping at the polleria. And trying new dishes, like the rabbit involtini, adds to the fun! I wonder what I’ll find on my next visit ?