Off The Beaten Path in Vernazza

Vernazza is crowded in June (even before peak season).

Vernazza is one of the five little villages that make up the Cinque Terre, stretching along the Ligurian coast of Italy. 4 of the 5 towns are perched right along the sea (from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). The fifth village is Corniglia which sits nearly 400 steps up a hillside. Once a string of isolated fishing villages, the railroad made the region more accessible and the tourists soon followed. Today the Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, part of a national park, and a popular tourist destination.

Many would argue that the whole region has become much too popular with tourists and that is probably most true of picturesque Vernazza. It can be a very crowded place, especially in the summer.

And yet, it is a magical place to visit. Vernazza has a natural harbor surrounded by dramatic cliffs with the ruins of a castle and tower, an ancient defense against pirates, facing out to sea. The small harbor plays host to the ferry dock, fishing boats, lots of sunbathers along the rocks, and a small beach.

Colorful boats in Vernazza’s harbor

Standing tall above the harbor is the church of Santa Margherita D’Antiochia with it’s unusual octagonal campanile (bell tower). It is this church and the harbor that is the classic view of Vernazza and the photo taken my countless visitors (top photo). Nearby is pretty Piazza Marconi ringed with cafes and restaurants. From there a single main street links the harbor with the train station on the opposite side of town. Along the street is an arch leading to another small beach, shops, gelaterie, a small street-side chapel, and lots and lots of tourists.

When I visited in mid-June, with my daughter and two oldest grandkids, the crowds had already arrived though had not yet peaked. After a harbor side lunch we headed out along Via Roma. After a while we decided to escape the crowds by taking a left hand turn and heading up some steps to get above the fray. What a good decision!

Just one street off the busy “main drag”, Via Agostino del Santo is another world entirely. Few people, no tourists spots. But so much to enjoy - small houses with painted doors, steep streets, little hidden alleys, a couple of galleries, enchanting corners, and a walk that ended high above the harbor with great views.

This off the beaten path walk was a wonderful break from the crowds and a glimpse of Vernazza that most visitors never see. As is so often the case when visiting Italy, it is the slices of everyday life and the hidden spots that are the most enchanting.

Camogli, A Perfect Spot on the Portofino Penisola

If asked to pick my favorite spot on the Portofino Peninsula, for me there would be no competition - it’s Camogli. Smaller than its busier neighbor Rapallo, and much more humble than nearby Portofino, Camogli strikes the perfect balance.

At its heart, Camogli remains a small fishing village. The name most likely originated as a contraction of the word Casa (house) and Mogli (Wives), a nod to the time when the men stayed away fishing and the wives kept things running in town. An alternative theory is that it signifies a town of closely packed houses. That fits too as Camogli is filled with rows of connected houses in sun-drenched colors. To add to the charm, many of the houses are decorated with tromp l’oeil paintings and pretty flower-filled balconies. Even the laundry is decorative.

Today, the area surrounding the small harbor and seaside promenade remains the center of action in this friendly and laid back town. And there is still a lot of fishing going on, with signs of that activity visible throughout town.

There are two ways to arrive in Camogli (other than by car). The train, just two stops and about 8 minutes away from Rapallo, arrives in the upper part of town. A walk down the main street in front of the station takes you past colorful houses, small parks, bougainvillea covered fences, little shops, and a small tourist info office (stop in for a town map). It also provides teasing glimpses of the sea down below.

The second way to arrive is by ferry from San Fruttuoso, arriving in the lower town’s small harbor. The harbor is full of fishing boats and small sailing boats.

Camogli’s harbor, viewed through its romantic fence full of hearts. Valentine’s Day is an event to celebrate in Camogli.

A walk along the back of the harbor leads to a long jetty with harbor and open sea views, an interesting art installation, and a peek at Genoa in the distance.

Up above the harbor, on a rocky cliff jutting out to the sea, sits the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, with one side facing the harbor and the other a small rocky swimming spot. Also on the the cliff is a 13th century defensive structure, the Castello della Dragonara (Dragon’s Castle). Built to defend against invaders, it did not stop an attack by the Milanese in the 15th century. Over time it has been destroyed, rebuilt, used as a prison and abandoned. Today it stands as a sleepy guard over the peaceful fishing village (it is not open to visitors).

Castello della Dragonara (photo by Jake Davis)

The rocky perch on which the church and castle stand separates the harbor from the seaside promenade that stretches along Via Garibaldi. The promenade plays host to shady archways, shops, restaurants (the local specialty is focaccia, but oh the gelato and granita!), beaches lined with colorful umbrellas, and distant views of sea and sailboats. I don’t think that there is a more tranquil, friendly spot on the Portofino Peninsula.

A day in Camogli was not nearly enough time to spend in this perfect little fishing village. I think fall would be a perfect time to return or perhaps in May for the annual Sagra del Pesce (Festival of the Fish). Or in August for the Festa della Stella Maris (Festival of the Star of the Sea) when candles float on the sea in honor of the Madonna who protects sailors. Decisions, decisions!