Rasiglia, An Enchanted Village in Umbria

A bit off the tourist trail in Umbria, in the hills surrounding the commune of Foligno, sits a magical place – the small hamlet of Rasiglia. This Medieval village is unique in that spring-fed streams run through town creating rushing waterways, pools, and waterfalls. The streams cascade downhill through the village, eventually joining the river Menotre at the base of the hill.

The streams in Rasiglia flow downhill from springs above the village. The largest spring is the Capovena at the top of the hill..

Because of those streams, which seem to outnumber the 50 or so permanent residents, Rasiglia is also known as Il Borgo dei Ruscelli (the Village of Streams). A visit to this village was top of my to-see list during a recent stay in Umbria. Only about a 30 min drive from my base in Bevagna, it made for a perfect day trip.

The streams flow through town, sometimes tumbling down the rocks and other times pausing to fill small basins.

Remants of the fortress that once stood at the top of Rasiglia

With origins in the 12th century, Rasiglia was once a fortified town. Now, little remains of the original fortress although remnants of a tower can be seen at the top of the village.

Most important to the town’s history, the streams that flow from the springs above the village provided the power used to run its mills and also provided the water needed for the weaving and dyeing of wool, an important industry in the region.

Today, visitors can wander through the historic town enjoying the beauty and sound of its many streams along with the pretty houses and flower filled spaces tucked in amid the flowing waters. There are also cafes and lunch spots, offering a charming spot for a mid-day pause.

Not to be missed are the historic grain mill and the weaving museum. Both give fascinating glimpses into Rasiglia’s history.

While Umbria has many beautiful, and much more famous, towns it was Rasiglia that most delighted me, transporting me for one day to a fairytale world where streams run through an ancient hamlet.

Wandering Through Parma

When I think of Parma, located in the Emilia-Romagna region and one of my favorite places to visit, many things come to mind. There is of course the food – delicate buttery slices of Prosciutto di Parma, chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and beautiful filled pastas. If you can’t eat well in Parma then, well, I hardly know what to say. 

For anyone who enjoys food tours, Parma is a great place to book an outing to see how Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Aceto Balsamico are made. And, if you look down when walking through town, you will spot some tiles related to Parma’s food scene set into the pavement.

 Parma has wonderful museums, theaters, an annual Verdi opera festival, a beautiful cathedral and a stunning baptistery. The architecture is lovely and colorful and the city has an energetic vibe. And, if that were not enough, it also has fabulous public spaces and parks.

I took advantage of many of those things on my recent visit, but also spent some time just wandering through the city and enjoying a variety of neighborhoods, street scenes, and green spaces.

I especially enjoyed wandering through the Borgo del Gallo, a small neighborhood within the historic center of Parma. Just off one on Parma’s main streets, stepping into the alleys of Borgo del Gallo feels like stepping into a small village. The narrow street is lined with shops, markets, and cafes. It is a lively hub of activity with a unique character.

In the center of Parma, just in front of the Pilotta Museum complex is a public space centered around a huge shallow reflecting pool. Several monuments anchor the edges of the space. It is a place where locals sit and socialize, where children play, and a good place to cool off on a warm day or rest after a visit to the fabulous museums of the Pilotta.

Palazzo Ducale, Parma

My last wander took me to Parma’s Oltretorrente neighborhood. A literal translation of the word Oltretorrente would be “beyond the torrent”. It is the old part of the city, on the west side of the river that flows through town. My destination was the Parco Ducale, the park that surrounds a Palazzo that was once the home of Parma’s Dukes.

The park is Parma’s biggest green space. Lined with trees, it is a shady place filled with families, students, walkers, bicyclists, and dogs.  At one end is the Ducal Palace (now home to Parma’s police) and at the other a small man-made island with a central fountain. 

In between are grassy areas, walking paths, a playground, and an outdoor cafe. It is a fabulous spot for being outside in nature, relaxing, and people watching. 

Each of these spots are important to Parma’s history and day-to-day life. For a visitor, they make for a nice glimpse into the life of the city and a respite from a busy day of more “touristy” activities.

Astronomical clock, Piazza Garibaldi, Parma

The Garden of Palazzo Pfanner

Garden spaces in Lucca are treasures. They are especially important for those of us who live in small apartments without outdoor space of our own. Public gardens, and private ones open to visitors, provide the opportunity to sit quietly on a bench, to enjoy the peaceful beauty of trees and flowers, or to just breath in and out, finding respite from a busy day. 

Even better if the garden sits behind a historic palazzo, surrounds a fountain spraying water high into the air, and offers views over the graceful arches of the limonaia onto Lucca’s walls above. 

The limonaia in the garden of Palazzo Pfanner

The garden of Palazzo Pfanner in Lucca is just such a spot. A private garden, it is open to visitors for a small fee. It has long been one of my favorite outdoor spaces, a perfect spot to read a book, daydream, relax, and enjoy the blooms that change from spring to summer to fall. It is also a wonderful spot to listen to a small concert or enjoy a variety of events that take place at the palazzo.

Last spring and summer the garden was closed for major renovations. It has now reopened, refreshed and ready for visitors once again.

The newly planted grass is edged with irises and rose bushes. In mid-May, the scent of roses filled the garden.

The highlight of the garden for me arrives in late May and early June when the Hydrangeas bloom. Their colors, ranging from white to pink to pale purple, all set off by bright green foliage, are stunning. They are one of the garden’s best offerings and I was happy to find that after last year’s work they remained undamaged and in place, lining walkways and walls and filling the garden with color.

Many other of the garden’s best offerings remain in their original places too – the stands of bamboo which create shady alleys and hidden corners, the towering Magnolia tree, the large terra cotta pots of lemon trees, the classic statues, and the old walls that surround the garden.

One nice change is the addition of QR codes to the plant identification markers. Click on the code for a link to information about the roses, hydrangeas, camellias, and magnolias.

Only one change left me a little sad. The run down, unrestored small brick barn area that once stored beer barrels (back when the palazzo was a beer garden) has been restored. The old brick walls have been plastered over and the area now houses a new bathroom and storage. I miss the look and history of the old rustic barn (old, left, and new on the right below). But that’s a small hiccup in this otherwise spectacular garden.

What a joy it was to once again sit in this garden! (I can’t resist a few more hydrangea photos)

High Above Bologna

Bologna is a fabulous place to visit. With its miles of porticos, Medieval buildings, ancient churches, historic university, fountains, beautiful piazzas, and its very own leaning tower, it makes for a fabulous stop on any northern Italian itinerary. And then there is the food. Bologna is where filled pasta takes center stage along with salumi of all types and gorgeous aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It is a food lover’s mecca.

Going through the Porta Saragozza on the train to the Santuario.

But high above the city lies something that many visitors miss – the Santuario della Beata Vergine di San Luca (Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca). And that’s a shame, because it is a place of beauty and history. 

The Santuario lies 4.9 km (about 3 miles) from Bologna’s city center, up a series of steep portico lined steps that begin just beyond the historic 13th century city gate of Porta Saragozza. To make the walk is to undertake a pilgrimage, one not for the faint of heart (or weak of knees).

But there is another option – a small train departs from Piazza Maggiore in the historic center of Bologna and whisks passengers (well, more accurately it chugs slowly up the hill) along the portico and up to the Santuario. I normally avoid little tourist trains, but I make an exception for this one which stops right at the base of the Santuario’s broad terrace. After visiting the church, riders can catch the train back to town. Tickets cost €13 and the journey up to the church takes about 25 minutes.

The arches of the portico leading up to the Santuario. There are 666 arches total leading from Bologna city up the hill to the Santuario.

The portico itself is fascinating. Built beginning in 1674, it has 666 arches under which are several tiny chapels (once upon a time there were many more). Each year, in May for the Feast of the Ascension, the Byzantine Icon of the Madonna of San Luca is carried through the portico down to the city where it remains for one week at the Cattedrale di San Pietro (Cathedral of St. Peter, Bologna’s main church).  The icon then makes a return pilgrimage, up the portico, to the Santuario. The portico protects the icon from the elements during its journey down and back up the hill. Even for the non-religious, this is a fascinating slice of Italian history and culture.

Just one of the fabulous views from the Santuario atop the Monte del Guardia.

The Madonna of San Luca (from the website of the Santuario della Beata Vergine)

The Santuario sits on a hill, the Monte del Guardia. Its terrace offers panoramic views of the countryside, the hills, and the city of Bologna.  

The church was built on the site of a female hermitage for the purpose of housing the icon of the Madonna. The icon, which first arrived to Bologna in the 13th century, was originally cared for on this site by the nuns of the hermitage.

Consecrated in 1765, the original building has evolved and changed over the centuries. The current church, with its columns, marble, and gold trimmings, is quite ornate. It is filled with beautiful paintings and sculptures. Seeing art inside churches, where it was intended to be displayed, is always the best venue for appreciating the work. The art in the Santuario is no exception.

When visiting the church, definitely look up. The frescoed arches above the main and side altars are wonderful as are the large hanging lanterns. The small cupola, painted by the Florentine artist Cassioli in the early 1900’s, is lovely.

The setting of the Santuario is quiet and peaceful. The views are wonderful. The history is one of ancient legends and devotions. It is unique and fascinating, a not-to-be-missed place when visiting Bologna.

Prato’s Museo del Tessuto (Textile Museum)

Tuscany is not all rolling hills, art, vineyards, olive groves, and Medieval streetscapes.  A different Tuscany presents itself in the city of Prato. While Prato does have a historic center worth exploring, it is better known as the center of a thiving textile and fashion industry. 

Displays in the Textile Museum recount the history of cloth making and the fashion industry in Prato, including the role of Chinese immigrants.

The creation of textiles in Prato goes back to the 12th century, but it was the industrial revolution of the late 1800’s which fostered the growth of the industry.  Another boom period came with the end of World War II when Prato became one of Europe’s largest districts for textile and clothing manufacturing. Prato’s role in textiles and fashion continues today, in large part supported by the Chinese immigrants who began arriving in the early 1990’s. 

The history of textiles in Prato is celebrated in a small but fascinating and well-curated museum, The Museo del Tessuto. Established 50 years ago, the museum is now housed in a historic building – the former Compolmi textile factory. The factory was opened in 1863 by Vicenzo and Leopoldo Compolmi in a building that formerly housed a mill (and before that a convent). One of the fascinating aspects of the museum is seeing the former factory’s collection of machinery used in the manufacturing process along with implements used during different periods of manufacturing. 

Displays throughout the museum explain the evolution of fashion and style as well as materials used during different time periods. There are displays on types of fabrics, materials used to spin thread, and agents for coloring fabric. Many of the educational displays are hands on, giving visitors the ability to feel how different raw materials are to the touch. I owe these displays a big thank you for most of the info contained in this post.

Recently, I had a chance to visit the museum and see two special exhibits.  One, Silk Treasures, showcases fabric, small remnants, larger pieces, and intact garments, from the 15th – 18th centuries. Many were originally designed for Europe’s wealthy class and later recycled into garments worn by the clergy. The fabrics are woven with gold and silver threads as well as intense blues and reds, forming intricate and beautiful patterns. That they have survived for centuries seems like a miracle. The Silk Treasures exhibit will be on display until December 21, 2025.

The second special exhibit is quite different.  It is a contemporary and futuristic display of clothing crafted from velvet fabrics.  Entitled Velvet Mi Amor, it was created by father and daughter designers Stefano and Corinna Chiassai.

The Velvet Mi Amor exhibit has an eye-catching group of patterns, colors, and textures.

The exhibit, which runs through June 8th, includes 24 otherworldly figures clothed in a diverse range of velvets – prints, patterns, inlays, and laser cuts all have a place.  The oversize pants, jackets, shoes and hats, all in velvet, pull you in to take a closer look. You may even find some hidden messages in the patterns.   

Prato is easily reached by train in about 30 minutes from Florence or 60 minutes from Lucca.  The museum, including its well-stocked gift shop, is definitely worth a visit. And Prato, which hosts Italy’s second largest Chinese population, is just the place for a post-museum Chinese food lunch.

The gift shop at Museo del Tessuto