A Busy Week in Lucca

Lucca has been a whirlwind of activity this week - lots of wonderful events happening all over town. Also lots visitors as Italians “make a bridge” to create an extra long weekend between the Liberation Day national holiday on Thursday April 25th and the end of the weekend on Sunday the 28th.

The weather has remained chilly - well below normal and rainy. But that has not hampered the fun. I’ve kept busy with markets, music, a saint’s day festival, the Liberation Day ceremonies, and dance performances. All in one week! With all that going on, I decided that an extra post was needed to share some photos from this busy week, so I am sneaking this one in on a Saturday.

The 25th was the national holiday that kicked off the long weekend. Liberation Day celebrates the end of Nazi occupation of Italy at the conclusion of WWII. The ceremony begins in the courtyard of the Palazzo Ducale with speeches, brass bands, and military groups. An honor guard lays a wreath at Lucca’s memorial for locals lost in war. The day is one of remembrance but also one that brings into focus the tragedy of all wars and the human toll that they take. I find that the horrors of war feel so much closer here, and throughout Europe, than in the US. These monuments to all those lost are incredibly moving.

Two major cultural events are taking place this week, Lucca Classica and Lucca Dance Meeting. Both bring elegant artistry to the city.

Concerts and dance exhibitions take place in settings throughout town, both indoors and in the piazzas.

An added bonus is the reopening of Caffè di Simo. Closed for the last 12 years, it once played host to Lucca’s artistic community. Puccini played piano here at the end of the 19th century (the name was Caffè Casali at that time). Imagine the lively discussions that took place as poets, musicians, and writers gathered here. Imagine Puccini at the keyboard!

The caffè has recently reopened, for a limited time, as a venue for small performances linked to celebrations to mark 100 years since Puccini’s death in November of 1924. Two performances this week gave me the chance to soak in the atmosphere of the historic caffè, largely unchanged since Puccini’s time. In the first, I listened to a performance of Puccini music and Neapolitan songs. I was surprised to learn that Puccini wrote some ninne nanne (lullabies)! The second was in conjunction with the Dance Meeting and featured a narration of episodes from Puccini’s life (a colorful one!) along with arias sung by two very talented women (a soprano and a mezzo soprano) with accompanying interpretive dance. The voices were soaring, the dance perfectly in tune with the music, and the small venue full of history. Wow!

Lucca’s favorite saint - Santa Zita - is celebrated each year with her very own festival and lots and lots of flowers. The Basilica of San Frediano is the place to go to view the saint’s preserved body. During the festival it is moved front and center in the middle of the church, surrounded by candles and flowers.

This temporary floral island in placed in front of the Basilica of San Frediano in remembrance of Santa Zita, who died April 27, 1278.

Put a euro in the basket, pass by and touch her glass sarcophagus, light a candle and you are guaranteed another year in Lucca (OK, I made that last part up but it has worked for me thus far!)

Santa Zita is honored in the Basilica of San Frediano on her feast day.

Because one of Santa Zita’s miracles involved flowers, the celebration includes a floral island created in front of the church and a flower market that fills the nearby Piazza Anfiteatro.

Movie making in progress! (Photo courtesy of a local friend)

In addition to all of these events, there is also a movie shoot going on throughout town, with sightings of Hollywood stars and interesting glimpses into the mechanics of movie making (and a bit of traffic chaos and closed streets). Do you recognize the leading man captured in this photo?

Busy week indeed!

Springtime In the Botanic Garden of Padova

The Orto Botanico (Botanic Garden) of Padova (Padua in English) dates back to the year 1545.  It was created on land owned by Benedictine monks, with the blessing of the Venetian Republic. The purpose for its creation was the study of medicinal herbs  - a pretty important study in times of plague and pestilence, long before the advent of antibiotics and vaccines.  The early botanists sought to identify those plants which promoted health and cured disease (as well as the dangerous ones that could harm). 

 The Orto Botanico continues to be a place of study, international collaboration, and research.  In 1997 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its contribution to, in the words of UNESCO  “the sciences of botany, medicine, chemistry and pharmacy”.

In addition to being an important scientific site, it is also a place of great beauty.  The enclosed garden, overlooked by the domes of churches on both sides, sits just beyond the Basilica of St. Anthony.  Glimpses of church domes through the garden’s trees add to the enchantment of the setting.

The surrounding brick walls, topped with stone balustrades, enclose meandering paths edged with wild flowers, gated formal gardens, a small stream, a variety of trees, and several pretty fountains. 

Small buildings showcase carnivorous plants and one very ancient tree.  A much larger greenhouse is the center for the study of biodiversity (currently closed to visitors). 

 On the day I visited (in early April) the garden was blooming with spring flowers.  Wisteria, both purple and white varieties, clung to the brick walls.  The Irises were just beginning to bloom and the scent of lilacs was in the air. 

 The Orto Botanico is an oasis of color and fragrance in the middle of Padova. What a great way to spend a spring afternoon!

The Church of San Salvatore in Lucca

A painted door in Piazza del Salvatore, Lucca

A couple of days in Lucca last week were rain free – perfect for catching up on errands.   My tasks included a stop at the lavandaria (cleaners), a quick visit to a local shop to buy a pretty pot for the chives I’ll grow on a sunny windowsill, a meet up with a friend for a coffee (there may have been a pastry involved), and a trip to the Ortofrutta to stock up on vegetables. 

 The best part of running errands here is that it never feels like a chore.  No drudgery involved.  How could there be when the errands are done on foot and all involve a walk through historic Medieval streets?  There are ancient stone buildings, centuries old decorative brick work around windows, balconies full of flowers, and beautiful old wooden doors along every route.  Add to that the sound of spoken Italian providing a soundtrack to daily life here and chores are fun.

On my errands I stopped into one of Lucca’s small and lesser known (at least to visitors; it’s a favorite of locals) churches. It was empty, silent, and unguarded. I was the only person inside, free to admire the architecture, artwork, and treasures within. To leave such a historic place, filled with valuable artifacts, so accessible would be unheard of in the US.  Here in Lucca it is not unusual at all.  

The Church of San Salvatore, also known as the Church of the Misericordia, Lucca

The church, officially the Church of San Salvatore in Mustolio, is more commonly known as the Church of the Misericordia because it is located right next to what was for many years the office of the Misericordia Ambulance Service.   

A few months ago the ambulance service moved outside of central Lucca, leaving a spot for some benches and flower pots in the space where the ambulances used to sit. The stone wall of the church is now easy to see and the historic carved lintel above the side door more visible.

This new sitting area, once filled with parked ambulances, is now a pretty place to sit facing the piazza along the side of the church.

 A church has stood here for over 1000 years**, with major renovations and modifications over time.  Some of the most important elements of the current church are the exterior lintels, one over the front right door (below, right) and one over the side door (below, left), that date from the 12th century.  Each lintel tells a story from the life of Saint Nicholas.  They are beautifully carved, in wonderful shape, and are important examples of decorative elements from that time period. 

The interior of the church has a main altar that contains a 14th century wooden crucifix.   Two smaller altars are placed along the sides of the small church. One, an ornate sculpted piece, frames a Christ with bound wrists. The other is a depiction of Our Lady of Fatima surrounded by children.

There are several paintings inside the church, including an Ascension from the year 1561 by the local artist Vezzano and another that depicts local favorite Santa Zita in the company of several saints. 

I always find the little details in a church fascinating. A memorial marker, a lantern, a holy water font, a small shrine, a simple stature, a bit of faded fresco. This are the things that capture my attention and there are plenty to see in the Church of San Salvatore.

The quiet church provides an oasis of calm.  As an added bonus, it sits within the Piazza del Salvatore with Nottolini’s famous fountain topped by the Naiade statue. What a beautiful place to stop in the midst of running errands!

** A huge thanks to The Wanderer’s Guide to Lucca by Brian Lindquist for the history of San Salvatore church.  His book, and the accompanying Wanderer’s Map, remain the most valuable English language source for information on the historic churches and buildings in Lucca.  It’s a must have for anyone living here or interested in Lucca’s history.

Can you spot Santa Zita in this painting from the year 1638 by Mannucci?

March in Lucca

The month of March starts off slow in Lucca and then builds towards the first hints of spring, an explosion of flowers, the beginning of the busy visitor season and, finally, Spring.

But so far, the first week of March isn’t feeling much different than February.  It’s still raining.  With gray skies and bare trees, most of the color comes from a rainbow of umbrellas. 

And while the temperatures are slowly creeping up, it is still chilly. Perfect weather for soup, pots of tea, afternoon naps, and catching up with friends. 

Even better if the catching up happens over a cappuccino in an elegant cafe.

I’ve been back in Lucca for two weeks now, after a long visit to the US over the holidays and all through January. A walk around town, even in the drizzly weather, is a good remedy for the prolonged case of jet lag that has hounded me since my return.  

This statue of Luigi Boccherini is always there to greet me when I return to Lucca. He sits outside the Boccherini Institute, a music school. It isn’t far from my apartment so I pass by often. Walking past and hearing the sounds of students practicing is always a sure sign that I am back in Lucca.

As I walk, I enjoy seeing familiar places as well as small forgotten details and surprise finds. 

Stumbling across a little vignette like this one is always a delightful surprise.

I am always delighted by how many new details I find even after 5 years of living here - a previously unnoticed stretch of decorative brick, a bit of street art, a beautiful art deco piece decorating a building, a fanciful torch holder, a unique door knocker, beautiful decorative ironwork, a statue.    

 On my recent walks I’ve also tried to pay attention to the signs of the season in Lucca.  The nearly empty weekday streets are a sure sign that it is still late winter. 

The many temporarily closed cafes and bars signify the owners’ chance to grab a bit of rest after the holidays and the excitement of Carnevale and before the hubbub of events that surround Easter.

The bare branches of this tree are like a sculpture against the backdrop of the old brick and stone church wall.

At this time of year there is a stark beauty in the bare trees and vines.  In a few weeks the wisteria will begin to flower and the trees will turn green with leaves.  And the visitors will arrive.  But not just yet.  And, with all those bare branches, what a wonderful surprise this week to turn a corner and find a whole street of magnolias already in bloom. 

Mimosas are the traditional gift for la Festa della Donna

I am looking forward to several events that will come later this month. March 8th marks the Festa della Donna (International Women’s Day), a day to celebrate the achievements of women in all fields. Bright yellow bunches of mimosas are a traditional part of the day.

After that comes the Festa di San Giuseppe (Feast of Saint Joseph) on the 19th.  I admit that it is the traditional feast day frittelle that I really look forward to.  I’ll take two cream filled ones please.

Later in March, Good Friday will be marked with a traditional and very solemn procession through the streets of Lucca.  

It is an historic and moving event and one that always marks the beginning of spring for me. March will conclude with Easter. It arrives early this year, on March 31st. 

The Good Friday procession in Lucca

There are also some unique events happening this month. One is an exhibit of works by Antonio Canova (it runs through September). That exhibit will be a good thing to do on one of these a rainy March afternoons.

2024 marks the 100th anniversary of the death of Giacomo Puccini. And Puccini is a big deal here in Lucca where he was born. He started his musical career playing in local churches and spent much of his adult life in the area. He spent a lot of time in Lucca’s Caffe di Simo (in Puccini’s time it was known as Café Caselli).  Sadly, that cafe has been closed for more than a decade now, sitting empty on Via Fillungo.  It is a legendary place that has not been significantly changed since Puccini last met his friends there. It will reopen (temporarily) for several special events during the Puccini celebrations this year.  It’s one of those abandoned, dusty places that I have long wanted to see. I am looking forward to being able to get inside! 

This pretty cat made me smile on one of my wanders through Lucca. Here he sits outside the church where Puccini was baptized.

After its slow and quiet start, March promises to be a busy month in Lucca with lots of activities, celebrations, and the slow unfolding of spring. 

I’m ready!

Planning Spring and Summer Travel

The end of February, the longest short month of the year, is in sight.  The last few days have been damp and chilly in Lucca. Today, there is a constant rain pouring down. That makes it perfect weather for staying inside and writing.   I always forget that 50 degrees in Lucca, with its deeply shaded medieval streets, cold stone buildings, and dampness, feels a lot colder than 50 degrees in the sunshine and dryness of New Mexico.  Add in some rain and the chill is inescapable.

And while the end of February may have us dreaming of warm weather, in Lucca we are still in scarfs and warm coats. But the desire to shrug them off and unpack a spring wardrobe is strong.  I wouldn’t mind hanging up my umbrella either.

A summer vision along the Ligurian coast.

With spring just around the corner, and summer not that far behind, I have been daydreaming of warm weather, breezes coming off the sea, lake vistas, blooming flowers, and drinks on sunny piazzas. 

The rainy days also have me looking through my cache of photos and daydreaming about past and future travel. It is time to get serious about planning some adventures for spring and early summer.

Living in Italy, the whole of Europe is within reach. The only problem is deciding where to go.

In the spirit of travel planning, today I will share photos of spring and summer European travel ideas. I hope they serve as inspiration as you daydream about your own spring and summer plans. They are definitely giving me some ideas.

I found that the daffodils were beautiful in the Netherlands the first week of April last year. It was a bit too early for tulips which were still a few weeks away.

Below (left to right) are some fun things to do in Spring within easy reach of Lucca: riding the funiculare up to Montecatini Alto, April in the Cinque Terre (before the summer crowds arrive), Montecarlo as seen from the old Fortezza, and Bagnone, a charming small town along the Magra river in the Lunigiana region.

The south of France is lovely in spring and early summer. This year I will avoid the Olympic crowds near Paris, but would welcome some time in the south. To that end, a Viking Cruise along the Rhône river from Lyon to Avignon is on my spring bucket list. Below: photos from the market in Uzès, a small village in the Languedoc region, and a wonderful place to visit.

Spain is another good spring and early summer destination. It is not a place I know well, but the time I spent in Barcelona a few years ago was memorable. I would definitely jump at the chance for a return trip. Some favorites, below: a panoramic view from the department store at Plaza de Catalunya, Park Guell, La Sagrada Familia Basilica, the Palau de la Musica

In the heat of summer, England and Scotland can offer a cooler get-away. Below top row: Chawton House and its gardens (perfect for fans of Jane Austen). Bottom row: the ruins of the chapel at Holyrood House and the famous Grayfriars Bobby Pub in Edinborough. Chilly even in August!

Back in Italy, a summer vacation at Lake Como brings hot temperatures and crowds, but gorgeous views and a chance to catch breezes while riding the boats that crisscross the water.

Lake Como is always a good place for spring and summer fun.

The Ligurian coast is a wonderful early summer destination - views, beaches, charming fishing villages, pesto, and fabulous seafood!

Camogli, a small fishing village on the Portofino peninsula.

Do you have other recommendations for spring and summer travel? Let us all know on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.

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