San Quirico d'Orcia

The small villages in the Val d’Orcia have much in common.  They sit on hilltops and look out over rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards, and cypress trees. They are often fortified by city walls, the legacy of ancient conflicts. The street plans are mostly Medieval, often with a single main street and a large main piazza ringed with stone and brick buildings. They are filled with churches large and small.

Classic Val d’Orcia scenes, in the village of San Quirico

And the history!  From Etruscan tombs to Roman roads, from Medieval streetscapes to World War II bombs, the history of these villages is rich and fascinating.  That they have so much in common, and yet each village has its own unique character, makes a trip through this area especially wonderful. Think of Monticchiello with its Teatro Povero and stone houses, Montalcino with its famed Brunello wine and steep streets, Bagno Vignoni with its thermal pools, and Pienza - the perfect Renaissance city - with its pretty houses and flowers filled window boxes.

 San Quirico d’Orcia is yet another of the villages found in the Val d’Orcia. Named after a martyred child saint, it lies between Montalcino and Pienza, situated along the ancient Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome.  Today, modern pilgrims and adventurous walkers still pass through San Quirico as they follow the ancient path. Other tourists arrive more conventionally by car and stay to enjoy the many things that make this a most pleasant spot.

The ancient wall around San Quirico

Most of the wall surrounding the city remains, with 2 gates providing entrance to the historic center of town and several of the former watchtowers still standing (though now repurposed, some into tall and narrow homes).  The Porta Cappuccini is the old and most historic gate – a lovely way to enter the town.

 The best way to explore San Quirico is to simply wander.  A stroll along the main street, Via Dante Alighieri, takes you both along the route of the Via Francigena and past most of the main sights in town. At one end, just inside the city walls, is the Collegiata Church (12th century) with its interesting shape, three very different entrances, and beautiful bell tower.  

The Collegiata Church (also known as the church of Santi Quirico e Giulitta)

Further down the street is the church of San Francesco, with its famous terracotta della Robbia madonna (moved here from the Chapel of the Vitaleta) and its combination bell and clock tower. In front of the church is the Piazza della Liberta`. This lively square is the center of town and a hub of activity.  It’s a great place to stop for a coffee or a glass of wine and to soak in the atmosphere. 

Piazza della Liberta` and the Church of San Francesco

In this square is also the entry to one of San Quirico’s special spaces – the Horti Leonini, a 16th century garden.  The centerpiece is a statue of Cosimo III di Medici. All around him is classic Italian garden design. 

Stepping back into the Piazza della Liberta`, and continuing down Via Dante Aligheri, are two of my favorite spots.  One, is a hidden courtyard which contains an old well and the pilgrim’s refuge the Ospedale della Scala.  The other, right on the street, is the small church of Santa Maria Assunta, which is over 1000 years old (but no interior photos allowed!)

The old well in front of the Ospedale della Scala

 It’s also fun to wander the small side streets.  On my most recent visit, during the height of the olive harvest, I found an active but very old frantoio (olive press) which was still using old stones to grind the olives.  The friendly staff invited me inside to watch the process.  The smell of the fresh olive oil was delicious!

And on a side street just along the church of San Francesco is the wonderful Trattoria al Vecchio Forno, built on the site of the old town bakery (forno).  I’ve eaten here on previous visits and it’s a place that never fails to please.  My lunch, a honey drizzled sformatino and a pappa al pomodoro, eaten outside in the garden on a warm fall day, was delicious.

 Heading back to Pienza, the Chapel of the Madonna of Vitaleta is visible from the road.  It is well worth the detour to stop and visit this tiny chapel, which is one of the most photographed spots in Tuscany.   The chapel itself is not usually open, but the surrounding vistas are spectacular.  

 San Quirico was the last stop on my trip through the Val d’Orcia.  There are so many other places left to explore, among them the famous wine towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano (which is just outside the Val d’Orcia) and also the gardens at La Foce.  

I guess I’d better start planning a return trip!

Bagno Vignoni

Looking back over the past several posts, it is easy to understand why the entire Val d’Orcia is a UNESCO world heritage site. It would be impossible to pick just one town, one church, one monument with places like the Abbazia Sant’Antimo and Monticchiello in the running. To add one more reason why this valley is so special, add to the list the tiny hamlet of Bagno Vignoni.

In Italian bagno means bath, and here in Bagno Vignoni the baths are the hot spring fed pools for which this small hilltop village is famous. While there are certainly more modern spas located here today, the uniqueness of the town lies in its historic pools - sulfurous and hot, they’ve been used since Roman times. Pilgrims, popes, future saints, artists, and a host of important persons from centuries past have come to soak in the warm waters. Even before the medieval baths were built, the Etruscans came to the natural hot springs in this area.

Another view of the Baths of St. Catherine

At first glance, it would be easy to believe the village hasn’t changed for centuries. The main piazza in Bagno Vignoni is ancient and unlike any other I’ve seen in Italy. No central square with historic statue or fountain here. Instead, the central Piazza delle Sorgenti is a large, rectangular pool, fed by the hot springs just below. It dates back to the 1500’s and has changed little since that time. The pool is surrounded on 3 sides by a wall and, just beyond that, beautiful stone buildings. There are homes, shops, and a church standing just outside the wall of the baths.

An doorway in central Bagno Vignoni

On the fourth side of the large pool is the Loggia of Saint Catherine of Siena. Imagine her sitting there (well before she achieved sainthood) to admire the view of the pools. History says she did just that.

The Loggia of Saint Catherine (on the right)

On closer inspection, there are definitely signs of a more modern life here. Shops and cafes surround the main pool and branch out into the pretty side streets. A bit further on are hotels advertising spa services.

Not far from the central pool there is a series of small channels where the water flows to the cliffs that overlook the valley. Once upon a time these channels fed mills which were important to the economy of the town.

One of the abandoned buildings in the Parco dei Mulini

Today the Parco dei Mulini (Park of the Mills) is a place to dip your hands into the warm water and also to enjoy the expansive views. Looking down, the water runs over the cliff and way down below is a large pool for bathing.

A large pool lies at the foot of the cliffs of the Parco dei Mulini

Looking up, towards Castiglione d’ Orcia, is a huge ancient fortress, the Rocca a Tentennano (sometimes called the Rocca d’Orcia).

Rocca a Tentennano, a short drive from Bagno Vignoni

Bagno Vignoni is a marvel - and one more reason to spend some time exploring the Val d’Orcia.

Monticchiello: A Medieval Village in Tuscany

Italy is now struggling with a second wave of COVID-19 infections. Each week since the end of October seemed to bring a new governmental decree with tighter restrictions. As I write this, in mid-November, Tuscany has quickly progressed from the yellow zone (lowest risk) to the orange zone (moderate risk) and now to the dreaded red zone (highest risk). At present, travel outside of the comune (municipal area) of Lucca is forbidden except for urgent reasons. I was fortunate to be able to travel to the Val d’Orcia in south central Tuscany just before the current restrictions went into effect. Right now, such a trip would be impossible. So, while currently under lockdown in Lucca, over the next few weeks I will share glimpses into some of the small towns and hilltop villages I encountered during my week in the Val d’Orcia.

To begin this series, let’s start with a place that seems to come straight from the pages of a medieval story book, the fortress-like hamlet of Monticchiello.

Stone buildings line medieval streets in the fortified hamlet of Monticchiello

A bit of history: the settlement here is old - dating back to Etruscan times. The current fortress dates to the 1200’s. Today, Monticchiello is the most serene of places, but its history tells a different story. The fortress was part of the defenses of the Republic of Siena (long before there was a country called Italy) making it a 13th century pawn in the conflicts between Siena and Montepulciano. Later, control by Siena gave way to the power of the Medicis. Later still, Monticchiello became a part of the district of Pienza (1777) where it remains today.

Jump ahead to 1944 for some more recent history. During World War II, the area around Monticchiello was the site of conflict between the occupying German forces and the local partigiani (partisan fighters). In an act of reprisal for partisan activities, the German army entered the town and rounded up all the residents, intending to massacre them. In a fortunate turn of events, a young German woman, the wife of a local man, was among the villagers. She was able to convince the soldiers (with the help of the village priest) that the people should be spared. And so the citizens in Monticchiello that day survived the war.

The winding road up to Monticchiello

The approach to Monticchiello is up a winding, cypress lined road - the classic Tuscan landscape. On arrival, and before entering the walled village itself, is a scenic overlook with sweeping views of the valley below.

Monticchiello is a fortified village designed to keep invaders out. Entrance is through an arched opening in the fortress walls, the Porta Sant’Agata. The remains of two watch towers, one rising high and one which has lost its top, flank the archway (top photo). What lies inside is a picture perfect medieval village with sloped streets, stone buildings, open piazzas, steep steps leading up to houses, and pretty flower-filled windows and balconies. There are a couple of restaurants (including the well known La Porta with fantastic views over the valley from its outdoor terrace) as well as small shops and galleries (most closed on this visit, due to the impact of COVID). Of course, there are churches to visit and a museum dedicated to the local theater company.

Beautiful stone buildings are found throughout Monticchiello

Monticchiello is so perfect that is almost looks like a movie set. In fact, it has been often been used in movies, most recently the film “Made in Italy” starring Liam Nelson which was filmed in and around the village. The residents here (only about 200 in number) show great pride in the village, which is spotlessly tidy and full of colorful plants and flowers.

This is a quiet place and definitely not a tourist hotspot. Many who do visit come in the summer for the Teatro Povero, which is unique to Monticchiello. The Teatro Povero (Poor Theater) began here in the 1960’s, an era when the local way of life was in the middle of dramatic transformation. In post-war Monticchiello the agricultural tradition of share-chopping was fading away, people were moving to the cities for work, the economic and societal changes were dramatic. The theater, in which a play is produced based on a theme of current local importance, has involved the community in a type of public self-reflection and expression for more than 50 years. The theme is chosen by the local theater group, the play is written, directed, and acted by locals . One play is produced each year and presented as an outdoor event during July and August. A 2017 documentary film, Spettacolo, tells this story beautifully and insightfully.

Monticchiello may be off the beaten track but that is exactly what makes it so magical! Stopping here gives a glimpse of life in medieval Italy, a chance to walk the steep streets of a fortified village, a taste of the spirit of an authentic hilltop hamlet, and amazing views. And if, like me, you find Italian doors and windows fascinating, then Monticchiello is your kind of place.

Lucca In the Year 1369

Italians have long memories, especially when it comes to historic events and rivalries. The Lucchese are no exception. Each spring they celebrate several long-ago events - World War II Liberation Day and the feast of Santa Zita, for starters. One unique local celebration recalls the year 1369, when the city of Lucca gained its liberty from its most hated rival - Pisa (not by war, but by declaration of the Emperor Charles IV, in exchange for a large sum of money). Today’s rivalry with Pisa mostly involves soccer and the claim to who has the best city to visit or live in, but in 1369, achieving freedom from domination by a rival city state was huge. After that, Lucca fought hard to maintain its independence from all rivals, especially Pisa and Florence, 

Fierce ladies - each with an arco lungo (long bow)

So, just how is this major historical event celebrated? Picture Medieval costumes, archers with long bows and cross bows, drummers and flag throwers. Add in city and church officials reading proclamations and lots of spectators,locals, tourists, and wide-eyed children, all watching history recreated in the square in front of the cathedral of San Martino, and you have an exciting and photo-worthy event. 

Lanciatori di bandiera (flag throwers) - a crowd favorite as they toss their flags high into the air

The celebration of Lucca’s liberation from Pisa, on the Sunday following Easter, is one of my favorite annual events and one that, for me, says welcome to spring in Lucca, a city where history comes alive.  

-post by JMB

Balestrieri with their cross bows (balestre)

The sounds of drums is a big part of the festival. These batteriste (drummers) come in all ages.