Heaven and Hell in Pietrasanta

Pietrasanta has long been an artistic center in the Versilia (the coastal area of Tuscany).  It is not far from the Carrara marble quarries favored by Michelangelo in the 16th century and by generations of sculptors ever since.  The name itself reflects this history, Pietra = stone and Santa = sacred or holy.  Marble, and the art of sculpture, is the artistic heart of this small town but sculpture is not the only art form to see in Pietrasanta. Art in all of its forms can be found here in museums, churches, galleries, studios, and in the ever-changing outdoor exhibits in piazzas and parks throughout the city. 

How graceful is this outdoor sculpture ?

 My last visit to Pietrasanta was just before the COVID emergency began. Now that Italy is opening up to travel again, it is one of the places I can hardly wait to revisit.  My next visit is sure to include two of my favorite places – The Museo dei Bozzetti and the Church of the Misericordia (officially named the church of Sant’Antonio abate e San Biagio).

One of a group of sculpted nudes who seem to be watching and waiting in the Museo dei Bozzetti

For anyone with an interest in sculpture, the Museo dei Bozzetti is a must see.  Bozzetti are small scale “rough drafts” of sculptures.  The museum includes hundreds of these along with many scale models, displays demonstrating the process of creating sculptures, and stunning full-size works.  Entrance is free, the museum is located just off Pietrasanta’s main square, near the Duomo.   Below are some photos from my pre-COVID visits to the Bozzetti.

My second “must” is a visit to the Church of the Misericordia. This small church is easy to miss, nestled between store fronts on Via Mazzini.  But once seen, it is not easily forgotten.  Here the Colombian artist Fernando Botero, who has lived and worked in Pietrasanta, painted two large panels – The Gates of Paradise and the Gates of the Inferno.  In typical Botero style the figures are large, round, and fleshy (he has been quoted as saying that he doesn’t paint fat people but rather paints volume).  This work is clearly modern (from 1993) and not at all in the style of the ancient frescoes that are usually found in Italian churches.  

Botero’s Paradise

There are vivid colors and even more vivid depictions, especially of the horrors of hell.  Look closely at the details below and you’ll find some recognizable figures.  Mother Teresa resides in heaven, Hitler in hell. Every time I look at these two paintings I discover something new and something thought provoking.  I wonder why the artist placed his own self-portrait in the inferno panel?   More of Botero’s work can be found outdoors in Pietrasanta where his super sized Roman Warrior stands in Matteotti Piazza.

Spending a day in Pietrasanta is a treat. The main square is a wonderful place to sit and have a coffee or an aperitivo, with a view of the old town walls and the Rocca di Sala fortress up the hill. The Duomo is beautiful and peaceful. Artists are often set up around town; watching them work is fun. The artists studios welcome visitors. The outdoor sculptures surprise and delight. All this is easily reachable by train from Lucca or Viareggio. Andiamo!

San Quirico d'Orcia

The small villages in the Val d’Orcia have much in common.  They sit on hilltops and look out over rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards, and cypress trees. They are often fortified by city walls, the legacy of ancient conflicts. The street plans are mostly Medieval, often with a single main street and a large main piazza ringed with stone and brick buildings. They are filled with churches large and small.

Classic Val d’Orcia scenes, in the village of San Quirico

And the history!  From Etruscan tombs to Roman roads, from Medieval streetscapes to World War II bombs, the history of these villages is rich and fascinating.  That they have so much in common, and yet each village has its own unique character, makes a trip through this area especially wonderful. Think of Monticchiello with its Teatro Povero and stone houses, Montalcino with its famed Brunello wine and steep streets, Bagno Vignoni with its thermal pools, and Pienza - the perfect Renaissance city - with its pretty houses and flowers filled window boxes.

 San Quirico d’Orcia is yet another of the villages found in the Val d’Orcia. Named after a martyred child saint, it lies between Montalcino and Pienza, situated along the ancient Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome.  Today, modern pilgrims and adventurous walkers still pass through San Quirico as they follow the ancient path. Other tourists arrive more conventionally by car and stay to enjoy the many things that make this a most pleasant spot.

The ancient wall around San Quirico

Most of the wall surrounding the city remains, with 2 gates providing entrance to the historic center of town and several of the former watchtowers still standing (though now repurposed, some into tall and narrow homes).  The Porta Cappuccini is the old and most historic gate – a lovely way to enter the town.

 The best way to explore San Quirico is to simply wander.  A stroll along the main street, Via Dante Alighieri, takes you both along the route of the Via Francigena and past most of the main sights in town. At one end, just inside the city walls, is the Collegiata Church (12th century) with its interesting shape, three very different entrances, and beautiful bell tower.  

The Collegiata Church (also known as the church of Santi Quirico e Giulitta)

Further down the street is the church of San Francesco, with its famous terracotta della Robbia madonna (moved here from the Chapel of the Vitaleta) and its combination bell and clock tower. In front of the church is the Piazza della Liberta`. This lively square is the center of town and a hub of activity.  It’s a great place to stop for a coffee or a glass of wine and to soak in the atmosphere. 

Piazza della Liberta` and the Church of San Francesco

In this square is also the entry to one of San Quirico’s special spaces – the Horti Leonini, a 16th century garden.  The centerpiece is a statue of Cosimo III di Medici. All around him is classic Italian garden design. 

Stepping back into the Piazza della Liberta`, and continuing down Via Dante Aligheri, are two of my favorite spots.  One, is a hidden courtyard which contains an old well and the pilgrim’s refuge the Ospedale della Scala.  The other, right on the street, is the small church of Santa Maria Assunta, which is over 1000 years old (but no interior photos allowed!)

The old well in front of the Ospedale della Scala

 It’s also fun to wander the small side streets.  On my most recent visit, during the height of the olive harvest, I found an active but very old frantoio (olive press) which was still using old stones to grind the olives.  The friendly staff invited me inside to watch the process.  The smell of the fresh olive oil was delicious!

And on a side street just along the church of San Francesco is the wonderful Trattoria al Vecchio Forno, built on the site of the old town bakery (forno).  I’ve eaten here on previous visits and it’s a place that never fails to please.  My lunch, a honey drizzled sformatino and a pappa al pomodoro, eaten outside in the garden on a warm fall day, was delicious.

 Heading back to Pienza, the Chapel of the Madonna of Vitaleta is visible from the road.  It is well worth the detour to stop and visit this tiny chapel, which is one of the most photographed spots in Tuscany.   The chapel itself is not usually open, but the surrounding vistas are spectacular.  

 San Quirico was the last stop on my trip through the Val d’Orcia.  There are so many other places left to explore, among them the famous wine towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano (which is just outside the Val d’Orcia) and also the gardens at La Foce.  

I guess I’d better start planning a return trip!

Pienza - A Renaissance Jewel of a Town

This frescoed arch tops the entry gate in Pienza. Note the marker saying it was destroyed in 1944 and restored in 1955. Near the end of WW II, an RAF bomb hit Pienza (which was occupied by the German army), destroying buildings on this end of the city and killing 22 residents.

Now that the holidays are over, it is time to return to writing about the Val d’Orcia. Today - the city of Pienza. To really appreciate Pienza, a little history provides important context.

During the 15th and 16th centuries, the Italian Renaissance led Europe out of the Dark Ages. With a fresh look at classical Greek and Roman culture, and a hefty dose of humanistic philosophy, this was a period of great advances in science, art, literature, and economics.

One important figure during this time was Eneo Silvio Piccolomini, born in 1405 in the village of Corsignano near Siena. Eneo Piccolomini grew up to become Pope Pio (Pius) II. A true Renaissance man, he was a poet, historian, humanist, and - something I greatly appreciate - a proponent of urban planning based on Renaissance principles of beauty, proportion, and classical form.

As Pope, Piccolomini decided to restructure Corsignano, transforming it from a Medieval village into the ideal Renaissance city. The newly renamed Pienza (meaning the City of Pius - I guess he wasn’t a modest man) would serve as his summer residence, a respite from the Vatican. Working with the architect Bernardo Rossellino, the new town was designed to maximize the views from its hilltop position above the surrounding valley as well as to create a beautiful and harmonious atmosphere inside the city walls.

Pienza is situated high above the valley, with beautiful views.

Today, the historic center of Pienza remains much as it was during Renaissance times. The central square, Piazza Pio II, is anchored by the duomo (cathedral). A modest size church, it makes a statement with gorgeous painted and arched ceilings and a central nave lined with massive stone pillars. The soaring bell tower guarantees that Pienza can be seen, sitting high on the hill top, from across the valley.

On one side of the church is the Piccolomini Palace, once home to Pope Pio II. This is a beautiful building with an inner courtyard surrounded by an arched loggia. The rear of the palace has 3 levels of terrace overlooking gardens and the valley - it’s a “can’t miss” place for the spectacular views. The palace is open for tours and also has a wonderful small gift shop. Opposite the Piccolomini Palace is a second palace, the Palazzo Vescovile, now a museum. These buildings, along with the duomo, frame three sides of Piazza Pio.

The interior courtyard of the Piccolomini Palace

The final anchor in the piazza is the Palazzo Comunale, a civic building. Small in size, the building has a beautiful loggia complete with historic markers and faded emblems as well as a clock tower. A stop for coffee at the nearby Caffe la Posta, provides an opportunity to sit and imagine this piazza as it must have been in the time of Pope Pio II while simultaneously experiencing a small slice of life in modern day Pienza (and a really good cappuccino).

Clocktower of Palazzo Comunale, Pienza

Pienza is not just a place of history. It is also a vibrant small community and one of the prettiest villages I have ever seen.

There is one main street, Corso Rossellino, lined with shops and cafes, and several smaller, charming side streets. As a plus, Pienza sits atop a flat mesa rather than a steep hill which makes for easy walking. For shoppers, Pienza is a treat. There are several shops selling local products, including its most famous product, Pecorino cheese. Just follow your nose and you can’t miss them!

Pienza is a great place to buy artisanal crafts including art work and ceramics. My favorite shop - the sign at the door says Bai Laboratorio Ceramica (officially it’s called Ceramiche d’Arte Bai Linda) - is a bit off Corso Rossellino at Via Gozzante 33. The shop is built into an Etruscan cave, the beautiful ceramics are made and painted on site (you might even get a glimpse of the artist at work in her studio), and the husband and wife owners are warm and friendly. On the day I visited they were about to host a workshop on-line because the pandemic had cancelled the in-person visit of an American group. At the end of my visit they gave me a painted ceramic magnet, a wonderful souvenir which now sits above my stove and reminds me to plan a return visit ASAP. This is exactly the type of small, local artisan’s shop that I like to support.

Much of the pretty in Pienza comes from the homes found on the smaller streets. They are immaculate townhomes made of stone with pretty wooden doors and ceramic house numbers. There are vines climbing the stone walls and flowers spilling from window boxes, steps, and railings. With such beautiful surroundings, it is easy to imagine living here.

Pienza is one of my favorite places to visit. The village is small but full of life, the surrounding countryside is peaceful and spectacularly gorgeous, the food is wonderful (I can still taste the delicate lemon pasta I had at La Bandita Townhouse), the people are friendly and welcoming, and the artisan workshops delightful. And, just outside of Pienza (a 10 minute drive), is the wonderful Agriturismo Cretaiole, which provides the perfect home base for exploring Pienza and the surrounding areas. Staying there makes any trip magical.

Agriturismo Cretaiole, a wonderful home base for exploring Pienza and the whole of the Val d’Orcia

Bagno Vignoni

Looking back over the past several posts, it is easy to understand why the entire Val d’Orcia is a UNESCO world heritage site. It would be impossible to pick just one town, one church, one monument with places like the Abbazia Sant’Antimo and Monticchiello in the running. To add one more reason why this valley is so special, add to the list the tiny hamlet of Bagno Vignoni.

In Italian bagno means bath, and here in Bagno Vignoni the baths are the hot spring fed pools for which this small hilltop village is famous. While there are certainly more modern spas located here today, the uniqueness of the town lies in its historic pools - sulfurous and hot, they’ve been used since Roman times. Pilgrims, popes, future saints, artists, and a host of important persons from centuries past have come to soak in the warm waters. Even before the medieval baths were built, the Etruscans came to the natural hot springs in this area.

Another view of the Baths of St. Catherine

At first glance, it would be easy to believe the village hasn’t changed for centuries. The main piazza in Bagno Vignoni is ancient and unlike any other I’ve seen in Italy. No central square with historic statue or fountain here. Instead, the central Piazza delle Sorgenti is a large, rectangular pool, fed by the hot springs just below. It dates back to the 1500’s and has changed little since that time. The pool is surrounded on 3 sides by a wall and, just beyond that, beautiful stone buildings. There are homes, shops, and a church standing just outside the wall of the baths.

An doorway in central Bagno Vignoni

On the fourth side of the large pool is the Loggia of Saint Catherine of Siena. Imagine her sitting there (well before she achieved sainthood) to admire the view of the pools. History says she did just that.

The Loggia of Saint Catherine (on the right)

On closer inspection, there are definitely signs of a more modern life here. Shops and cafes surround the main pool and branch out into the pretty side streets. A bit further on are hotels advertising spa services.

Not far from the central pool there is a series of small channels where the water flows to the cliffs that overlook the valley. Once upon a time these channels fed mills which were important to the economy of the town.

One of the abandoned buildings in the Parco dei Mulini

Today the Parco dei Mulini (Park of the Mills) is a place to dip your hands into the warm water and also to enjoy the expansive views. Looking down, the water runs over the cliff and way down below is a large pool for bathing.

A large pool lies at the foot of the cliffs of the Parco dei Mulini

Looking up, towards Castiglione d’ Orcia, is a huge ancient fortress, the Rocca a Tentennano (sometimes called the Rocca d’Orcia).

Rocca a Tentennano, a short drive from Bagno Vignoni

Bagno Vignoni is a marvel - and one more reason to spend some time exploring the Val d’Orcia.

Monticchiello: A Medieval Village in Tuscany

Italy is now struggling with a second wave of COVID-19 infections. Each week since the end of October seemed to bring a new governmental decree with tighter restrictions. As I write this, in mid-November, Tuscany has quickly progressed from the yellow zone (lowest risk) to the orange zone (moderate risk) and now to the dreaded red zone (highest risk). At present, travel outside of the comune (municipal area) of Lucca is forbidden except for urgent reasons. I was fortunate to be able to travel to the Val d’Orcia in south central Tuscany just before the current restrictions went into effect. Right now, such a trip would be impossible. So, while currently under lockdown in Lucca, over the next few weeks I will share glimpses into some of the small towns and hilltop villages I encountered during my week in the Val d’Orcia.

To begin this series, let’s start with a place that seems to come straight from the pages of a medieval story book, the fortress-like hamlet of Monticchiello.

Stone buildings line medieval streets in the fortified hamlet of Monticchiello

A bit of history: the settlement here is old - dating back to Etruscan times. The current fortress dates to the 1200’s. Today, Monticchiello is the most serene of places, but its history tells a different story. The fortress was part of the defenses of the Republic of Siena (long before there was a country called Italy) making it a 13th century pawn in the conflicts between Siena and Montepulciano. Later, control by Siena gave way to the power of the Medicis. Later still, Monticchiello became a part of the district of Pienza (1777) where it remains today.

Jump ahead to 1944 for some more recent history. During World War II, the area around Monticchiello was the site of conflict between the occupying German forces and the local partigiani (partisan fighters). In an act of reprisal for partisan activities, the German army entered the town and rounded up all the residents, intending to massacre them. In a fortunate turn of events, a young German woman, the wife of a local man, was among the villagers. She was able to convince the soldiers (with the help of the village priest) that the people should be spared. And so the citizens in Monticchiello that day survived the war.

The winding road up to Monticchiello

The approach to Monticchiello is up a winding, cypress lined road - the classic Tuscan landscape. On arrival, and before entering the walled village itself, is a scenic overlook with sweeping views of the valley below.

Monticchiello is a fortified village designed to keep invaders out. Entrance is through an arched opening in the fortress walls, the Porta Sant’Agata. The remains of two watch towers, one rising high and one which has lost its top, flank the archway (top photo). What lies inside is a picture perfect medieval village with sloped streets, stone buildings, open piazzas, steep steps leading up to houses, and pretty flower-filled windows and balconies. There are a couple of restaurants (including the well known La Porta with fantastic views over the valley from its outdoor terrace) as well as small shops and galleries (most closed on this visit, due to the impact of COVID). Of course, there are churches to visit and a museum dedicated to the local theater company.

Beautiful stone buildings are found throughout Monticchiello

Monticchiello is so perfect that is almost looks like a movie set. In fact, it has been often been used in movies, most recently the film “Made in Italy” starring Liam Nelson which was filmed in and around the village. The residents here (only about 200 in number) show great pride in the village, which is spotlessly tidy and full of colorful plants and flowers.

This is a quiet place and definitely not a tourist hotspot. Many who do visit come in the summer for the Teatro Povero, which is unique to Monticchiello. The Teatro Povero (Poor Theater) began here in the 1960’s, an era when the local way of life was in the middle of dramatic transformation. In post-war Monticchiello the agricultural tradition of share-chopping was fading away, people were moving to the cities for work, the economic and societal changes were dramatic. The theater, in which a play is produced based on a theme of current local importance, has involved the community in a type of public self-reflection and expression for more than 50 years. The theme is chosen by the local theater group, the play is written, directed, and acted by locals . One play is produced each year and presented as an outdoor event during July and August. A 2017 documentary film, Spettacolo, tells this story beautifully and insightfully.

Monticchiello may be off the beaten track but that is exactly what makes it so magical! Stopping here gives a glimpse of life in medieval Italy, a chance to walk the steep streets of a fortified village, a taste of the spirit of an authentic hilltop hamlet, and amazing views. And if, like me, you find Italian doors and windows fascinating, then Monticchiello is your kind of place.