A Morning in Padova's Market

When I first visited Italy, nearly 30 years ago, I hoped to attend a cooking class.  I had been studying Italian cookbooks (especially those by Marcella Hazan) and wanted more than anything to cook in Italy, using local ingredients, with a teacher who could show me how to make authentic Italian dishes.  Unfortunately, the cost of the week-long classes just did not fit my budget.  Instead, I came to Italy determined to taste regional dishes, shop local markets, and take lots of notes.  Or, as someone said to me, “So, you’re going to Italy to eat?”  Well, yes.  That pretty much summed up my intention.

My first bite of prosciutto with melon was a revelation!

 I learned so much on that trip, in large part through food experiences.  Restaurant dining introduced me to many dishes – sweet melon wrapped in salty proscuitto, a delicate risotto with saffron, fish straight from the lake, tiny wild blueberries atop gelato, pasta fatto a mano (homemade). The flavors and preparation methods were enlightening.  As good as the restaurant meals were, it was the Italian markets which really enchanted me.  Fresh produce artfully displayed, pan-ready trimmed artichokes floating in lemon water, perfectly ripe melons.  I marveled at the fishmongers in Venice who arranged their products in photo-worthy displays and at the shops in Florence filled with hanging legs of prosciutto, a vast array of cheeses, and cases of colorful filled pastas.  How I longed for a kitchen on that trip!

Fresh pasta at the Sant’Ambrogio market in Florence

 Since that time I have sought out markets whenever, and wherever, I’ve traveled.  They form some of my most vivid travel memories.  The best ones are the “mamma’s markets”, catering to locals rather than tourists.  Two of my favorites over years of travel are the weekly market in Uzes France (oh those olives!) and the Sant’Ambrogio market in Florence.   

Italy is not the only country with fabulous markets. This one in Uzes, France is among my favorites.

 My most recent market experience was in Padova (Padua) where I was delighted to find a fabulous daily market.  The outdoor market, centrally located in Piazze delle Erbe and Piazza della Frutta, was a wonderland of fresh fruits and vegetables.  Multiple vendors set up stalls each morning filled with just about everything a cook could desire -  baskets of bright lettuces, mounds of greenish-purple artichokes, piles of vibrant oranges, rows of tomatoes in different shapes and sizes, fat stalks of asparagus, dark purple eggplants, dried beans, herbs, and even flowers.  

Spending a morning there was a joy.  In the afternoon the market stalls disappeared and the piazza became a social hub of cafes, bars and casual restaurants. 

Beautiful blossoms in the Padova market

 In addition to the outdoor market stalls, an adjoining indoor market lies beneath the Palazzo della Ragione.  The culinary fun continued here with a host of shops selling fish, meats, prosciutto, bread, pastries, cheeses, and a variety of prepared foods.  There was even a rare sight in Italy – a “to go” coffee bar.   

There is so much to appreciate in Padova – stunning frescoes, historic churches, architecture, historical buildings, parks (I will get to all of these in another post) but never underestimate the power of a good market to add a fun experience when exploring a new city. 

From My Italian Kitchen: Winter Salads

A caprese salad, drizzled with balsamic glaze.

Growing up in my family, salads were strictly summertime fare. There wasn’t much variety in the salads we ate, in fact there was no variety at all. Salad meant one thing - iceberg lettuce, tomato (luckily, living on Long Island we had really good locally grown tomatoes), and cucumber. The dressing was always the same, a combination of olive oil (at least it was labeled olive oil, I have my doubts), vinegar, and a packet of Good Season Italian Dressing mix. Toss it all together and serve alongside everything from spaghetti to hotdogs to grilled steaks. When I moved from New York to Colorado, I got my first taste of avocado in a salad. A definite improvement. I think the first major variation on the familiar salad theme that I tasted was a Caesar salad - romaine lettuce, salty anchovies, cheese, and a flavorful dressing. And garlic croutons! My eyes were opened to new possibilities.

And then I started traveling to Italy. I remember with clarity the first time I tasted an Italian caprese salad with creamy mozzarella, perfectly ripe tomato, fresh basil, and really flavorful olive oil. Equally joyous was my first panzanella. The ingredients were familiar (cucumber, tomato, red onion, olive oil, red wine vinegar, bread) but they came together in a new and exciting way, one that made my taste buds explode. In Lucca, I tasted my first shaved raw artichoke salad topped with pear and pecorino cheese. I also discovered an arugula salad topped with big shaves of parmesan and carpaccio of beef. What a revelation!

Salad never looked like this when I was growing up!

Now it is mid-winter and the weather is cold and windy. The sun warmed tomatoes of summer are long gone. How I miss those summer salads! I had almost forgotten about winter salads, usually opting to put my cold season veggies in warming soups and stews. But then I had lunch with some friends who served the most delicious salad alongside soup on a chilly day. What a great reminder that winter salads can be just as tasty as the summer ones!

At this time of year the markets are full of beautiful winter veggies, many of which go well in salads. Spinach, beets, fennel, broccoli, and cauliflower are all good raw and can be added to a bowl of greens for a simple, and healthy, salad. Roasted veggies, such as red peppers and Brussel sprouts, also make great additions to a winter-time salad. The same goes for winter fruits, especially pears, apples, and clementines. Nuts, plentiful in Italy during the winter, add the perfect crunch. Combined with good leafy greens (thankfully available year round), some local cheese and a flavorful dressing, the result is a cold weather salad every bit as wonderful as a summer one. Hearty enough to be a lunch-time meal on their own, winter salads also pair well alongside a soup, pasta or roasted meat.

Starting with a base of leafy greens, these combinations are my winter favorites:

Pear with gorgonzola and chopped roasted pecans

Toasting the pecans makes them even better in this salad. A gorgonzola dolce is perfect paired with the nuts and pears.

Beets with shaved parmesan, pecans and tiny bits of preserved lemon peel. Pecorino works well too in place of parmesan. No time to roast beets? Many markets sell them packaged and already cooked.

A friend brought me a jar of candied lemon peel from Poland. It adds a perfect zing to a beet salad.

Shaved fennel, avocado, red onion and clementines

Red leaf lettuce with pear, pecorino fresca, and walnuts. Apple works well in this combination too.

Look for perfectly ripe pears and a good fresh pecorino for this salad. The better the cheese, the better the salad!

As for dressing, something with a bit of sweetness goes well with winter salads, especially those with fruit or beets. I like to mix equal parts of Dijon mustard, honey, my favorite olive oil, and either lemon juice or white wine vinegar plus a touch of salt and coarse ground pepper. This mixture goes well with any of the above combinations.

Thanks to my friend Susan for reminding me how tasty a winter salad can be!

Ending with this image - keeping the Ukrainian people in my thoughts and in my heart

La Polleria (The Poultry Shop)

Shopping for groceries (fare la spessa in Italian) is one of the great cultural experiences for stranieri (foreigners) living in Italy. Food, and the process of obtaining it, helps to define a culture. And the act of shopping itself provides a language lesson as it requires use of a specialized vocabulary - after all one wouldn’t want to request uva (grapes) when needing uova (eggs) or pesche (peaches) instead of pesce (fish). I look forward to grocery shopping in Lucca with an enthusiasm that I lack when in the United States.

While there are some big grocery stores here (true supermarkets), they are outside of the historic center of the town where I live. I do use one of the small grocery stores inside Lucca’s walls for essentials - pasta, rice, coffee, sugar, etc. But for other items it remains common in Lucca to visit a number of small specialty shops, something I love to do. Two years of living here has made me a bit fussy about foods. I prefer milk from the region of the Maremma, available at a nearby latteria (dairy store). It just tastes better than what I can buy at the grocery store, plus that same latteria sells the nicest cheeses and lovely little slices of frittata and vegetable tartlets. I buy only local olive oil, freshly pressed each fall. I have a couple of favorite meat markets, delis, and vegetable markets. As for bread - well it seems everyone has their favorite panificio (bread bakery). I will gladly walk across town for the best focaccia.

One of my favorite shopping experiences is to venture to the local polleria (poultry shop) where they specialize in the freshest, tastiest chicken. In Lucca that’s the Polleria Volpe on Via San Paolino. In addition to wonderful chicken they also have a variety of other meats and shelves full of pasta, beans, olive oils, and other staples.

Just some of the ready-to-cook meats available at Polleria Volpe

The yellowish color is typical of chicken found in Italy (apologies to my vegetarian friends, but these birds are tasty!)

As someone who was used to purchasing chicken on a white styrofoam tray wrapped in plastic, my first visit to Polleria Volpe was an eye-opener. I did not see what I wanted in the display case, so I asked if they had chicken thighs of the bone-in and skin-on variety. They did, but would need to cut them for me. The macellaio (butcher) then proceeded to remove a large chicken from a huge box full of chickens. Next, out came a big cleaver which she used to expertly removed the thigh / leg quarters from the chickens. Then she separated the thighs from the lower legs with a slightly smaller knife. They way she did it made it look more like an art form, or an ancient weaponry display, then butchering. Along the way she taught me the difference between cosce (which my dictionary said was a thigh but actually means the thigh / leg combination) and anca (hip - meaning just the upper thigh).

As if that weren’t enough, she then asked me “bruciate?”. HUH? Burned? Why would I want my chicken thighs burned? As it turned out, she was asking if I wanted her to singe the bits of remaining feathers, something no American butcher has ever asked me. That process leaves little brown singe marks on the skin and I swear it adds to the flavor once those thighs are roasted. That first visit to the polleria was a valuable cultural, language, and culinary, experience!

Who knew a butcher shop could be this colorful and interesting ?

Over time, I’ve come to know the butchers at Volpe and depend on their recommendations. They were most helpful in picking out a large roasting chicken to do stand-in for a Thanksgiving turkey last year. I was only a bit surprised when the chicken they pulled out for me had both its head and two very, very long legs. Thankfully the butcher removed both before wrapping it up in paper for me to take home. The bird also came with their best wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving, which they called the “American holiday”.

A while back I saw small involtini (little rolled pieces of meat) in their display case. At first I thought they were chicken but they were actually strips of rabbit (coniglio) laid on top of thin strips of lardo (pork fat), rolled up and secured with a toothpick. I was intrigued, but since I had never cooked rabbit I asked the butcher how to prepare it - in the forno (oven) or in a padella (frying pan)? Her recommendation: frying pan with a bit of olive oil and some white wine. I followed those instructions, but first I rolled them in finely chopped herbs (sage and rosemary) along with salt & some garlic. Then I seared them, added the white wine, squeezed in a bit of lemon juice, and let them cook for about 30 minutes. I finished the sauce with a little knob of butter and served the finished involtini over rice. The flavor was heavenly!

Pre-packed chicken wrapped in plastic just can’t compete, either for flavor or for the sheer delight of shopping at the polleria. And trying new dishes, like the rabbit involtini, adds to the fun! I wonder what I’ll find on my next visit ?

The Antiques Market Returns To Lucca

One of the many things missing during Italy’s COVID-19 lockdown was the monthly antiques market in Lucca. The market, always held on the weekend that includes the third Sunday of the month, is a local institution and something to look forward to for many people. But in the months of February, March, April and May 2020, the antiques market, along with so many other activities, was canceled.

The excitement was palpable then when it was announced that the market would resume in June. And what a return it made, with its many bancarelle (stalls) and vendors selling everything from piles of old skeleton keys to old record albums to vintage linens, demijohns, cameras, dishware, furniture and much, much more.

Peeking through the window of an antiques store on Via del Gallo

The market flows through several interconnected piazzas and down the surrounding side streets. Even the antique stores on Via del Gallo participate.

The crowd was smaller than usual this June but still full of enthusiasm. Almost all had their masks in place and seemed happy to cooperate with the vendors who provided hand sanitizer to use before touching their wares.

It seemed everyone was happy just to spend a Saturday or Sunday morning browsing the market underneath clear blue skies. Such a relief after the long period of lockdown.

Long before I moved here to live, I used to plan my trips to Lucca carefully, making sure that each included at least one day of the market. Back then I used to wander past the stalls and daydream about the things I would buy if only I had an apartment here.

These days I do have an apartment in Lucca, although it’s too small to buy any of the large furniture pieces that the market is known for. Happily, I have purchased a few things - an old, green glass demijohn (once used to store wine, now it holds the cork from each bottle of wine that I open), a pretty set of cordial glasses, an apperitivo fork, a vintage tablecloth.

A demijohn like these looks perfect in my living room.

Each of these items is special to me, but the greatest joy is not from the things themselves but from the memories of walking through the market, listening to the sound of the Italian language, bartering a bit, stopping at a cafe for a coffee while people watching, and enjoying the musicians who often play at the market. What a joy to have the market return. What a joy to live in Lucca! -post by Joanne

Classical music provides a soundtrack for shoppers. This talented musician can often be found playing in the piazzas of Lucca.

A French Market in an Italian Town

On a recent spring morning, I woke up as usual in my apartment in Lucca, Italy. But by the afternoon, I had the sense that I’d been transported to a little town in France. The reason behind my confusion was the arrival of a French Market, which suddenly appeared in the aptly named Piazza Napoleone, right here in Lucca. 

French bread baked in an Italian piazza

II love European markets and have been delighted to visit them in many cities. Although I am a confirmed lover of all things Italian, I must admit that most of my favorite markets have been in France.  

The charming market in Uzes, France, 2014

In France, I especially loved the weekly outdoor market in the tiny town of Uzes, the large indoor market in Avignon, and a lively market with a whole street of olive vendors in the town of Charon sur Saone. Visiting each was a thrill for me, but I never expected to find a French market here in Lucca. 

Market in Uzes, France, 2014

The Luccchese French Market was a “pop-up” market, here only for a long weekend in mid-May. How delightful to wander through a French bakery (with baguettes, brioche, and pastries baked right on site), a patisserie, and a whole stall of French biscuits and cookies.

There was also a colorful spice market and, of course, gorgeous French cheeses, tarts, and wines.

The spice vendor used this long-handled scoop to fill bags of spices.

In addition to the food booths, there were vendors selling a variety of French products. I browsed through stalls with French soaps, perfumes, linens, hats (or should I say chapeaux?), jewelry, and handbags.

Pretty summer hats

Hand-made French soap

The language was a mix of French accents and Italian words. Not a bad combination! And now I’m daydreaming about trips to France, past and future. One of the great things about living in Italy is that it puts all of Europe within easy reach. It’s time for me to plan some travel - who wants to come along?             -Post by JMB

How delicious does this little tart look?