Two Parts Italy

A bit off the tourist trail in Umbria, in the hills surrounding the commune of Foligno, sits a magical place – the small hamlet of Rasiglia. This Medieval village is unique in that spring-fed streams run through town creating rushing waterways, pools, and waterfalls. The streams cascade downhill through the village, eventually joining the river Menotre at the base of the hill.

The streams in Rasiglia flow downhill from springs above the village. The largest spring is the Capovena at the top of the hill..

Because of those streams, which seem to outnumber the 50 or so permanent residents, Rasiglia is also known as Il Borgo dei Ruscelli (the Village of Streams). A visit to this village was top of my to-see list during a recent stay in Umbria. Only about a 30 min drive from my base in Bevagna, it made for a perfect day trip.

The streams flow through town, sometimes tumbling down the rocks and other times pausing to fill small basins.

Remants of the fortress that once stood at the top of Rasiglia

With origins in the 12th century, Rasiglia was once a fortified town. Now, little remains of the original fortress although remnants of a tower can be seen at the top of the village.

Most important to the town’s history, the streams that flow from the springs above the village provided the power used to run its mills and also provided the water needed for the weaving and dyeing of wool, an important industry in the region.

Today, visitors can wander through the historic town enjoying the beauty and sound of its many streams along with the pretty houses and flower filled spaces tucked in amid the flowing waters. There are also cafes and lunch spots, offering a charming spot for a mid-day pause.

Not to be missed are the historic grain mill and the weaving museum. Both give fascinating glimpses into Rasiglia’s history.

While Umbria has many beautiful, and much more famous, towns it was Rasiglia that most delighted me, transporting me for one day to a fairytale world where streams run through an ancient hamlet.

One of the Medieval gates leading into the historic center of Bevagna.

Umbria is an Italian region that is entirely inland – it does not touch the Adriatic, the Mediterranean, or the Tyrrhenian seas. But lacking a seacoast does not mean that Umbria is without dramatic and fascinating landscapes. The region is full of green valleys, medieval hill towns, olive groves, vineyards, and fields of flowers and legumes.

Even though I live just a short distance away in Tuscany, Umbria was not a region I had explored in any depth. That changed recently when I spent Easter week based in the small Umbrian town of Bevagna.

Just outside of Bevagna’s walled city is Le Case, one of two little houses set amid the vines of La Fonte Azienda Agricola. The setting is quiet, peaceful, and lovely, providing the perfect base for exploring Umbria. The agriturismo is run by the Trabalza Marinucci family, parents Patrizia and Guido and adult children Giulia and Francesco. The family also includes 4 outdoor cats, a dog, and two goats. They (the people, not the goats) are fabulous hosts who also offer wine tastings and aperitivo in the cantina located on the property. And though I have always considered myself more of a city person, there was something about starting my days in the Umbrian countryside, overlooking the vineyards and surrounding hills, that was just perfect. I will miss the views from “my” little house in Umbria and the feeling of inner peace that I felt among the vines!

Of course, it is not possible to explore all of Umbria in one visit, and there were many places we did not get to on this week-long trip. But my friend and I made a good start at getting to know the region and found some unique experiences along the way. Just one example is the historic Pasquetta (Easter Monday) Ruzzolone, a cheese rolling competition in the town of Panicale (more about that in an upcoming post).

April in Umbria is a time of misty mornings, afternoon showers, and stunning sunsets.

A foggy morning outside of Bevagna, from La Fonte

April is also when poppies bloom. They pop up along roadsides, in stone walls, at the edges of vineyards, and sometimes they fill big open fields. To me, poppies are one of the best parts of spring. Seeing them is always a joyful reminder of the changing season.

Also in bloom in April are fields of yellow blooming rapeseed (used to make canola oil) along with a host of other flowers. Queen Anne’s lace, lilac, Jupiter’s beard, wild mustard, little violets, wisteria, and tiny white daisies were everywhere. Pink and white blossoms filled trees and wild figs had just the smallest figs beginning to grow. The hardest part of driving through Umbia was not stopping every mile to take a photo.

In April, the vines are just beginning to sprout leaves. Over just a week’s time we could see them getting bigger. At the agriturismo they were already at work tending the vines. La Fonte has several vineyards, some older and some newer vines, and different varieties of grape. The leaves in the various fields were growing leaves at different rates. The same was true of all the vineyards as we drove from valley to hillside – growth was very much determined by setting.

I will be writing more about specific towns over time, but today I hope you enjoy a bit of spring time in Umbria.